Heating and Air Conditioning Call us Toll Free @ 1-877-247-6426

Don't let you new system rob you blind.
How much is it going to cost to fix my air conditioner?Your Furnance and cooling system needs to be clenaed every year.
How much is it going to cost to fix my FAU?
How do I protect myself from bait and switch contractors?
Don't let your A/C repairman rip you off.
Can't a handyman fix my a/c?
The problem with ducting. Why it's probably costing you money.
I was told I have to change my evaporator coil when I change the outdoor unit. Why?
Is one brand of HVAC system better than another?
My new air conditioner seems to run all day long and it still will not cool my house comfortably. Why?
My upstairs is always hot and downstairs always cold no matter how long I run my system. Why?
What size of air conditioner do I need for my home?
How much will it cost to install a new air conditioner?
Do I need a permit to install a new air conditioner?
Since my new air conditioner was installed, our electric bill has skyrocketed. We don't even use the air conditioning very much and are only running it for a few hours at night. Is something wrong?
My air conditioner is not cooling. Why?
What is SEER and why do I need to know about it?
What is AFUE and how can it save me money?
How can I cash in on the government rebates?


Don't let your new installation rob you blind

Up to a 40% reduction in output is expected when you mismatch systems. This is part of the study from the Refrigeration Service Engineers Society and was published in 2007.

Mismatched 13 SEER Outdoor/Empire Logo
10 SEER Indoor
Using factory refrigerant charge
of 8lb, 7oz
Cooling Performance:
Capacity (Btuh) 22,208
SEER 8.46
Superheat (°F) 54.54
Subcooling (°F) 0.98
Liquid Pressure (psig) 209.94
Return Gas Pressure (psig) 58.42
Capacity Loss 40%
SEER Loss 38%

This is only a single example of what happens when you mismatch systems. A 38% loss in SEER. That means a very significant increase in your monthly utility overpayment. This study tells us that the indoor coil, the furnace or air handler and the outdoor unit need to matched just the way they were when the manufacturer submitted them for efficiency and btu testing. Any type of mismatch will cost you thousands of dollars in utility overpayments over the years.

Why would anybody mismatch a system? This is primarily done to save the homeowner money on the initial installation by reusing older components. Would you buy a new car and have the dealership install the transmission from your older car to save a little money? The True Cost of a Home Comfort System is determined by the initial installed investment, but by adding all the expenses, including; initial investment, monthly utility payment, maintenance and cost of breakdowns. Installing an engineered matched compete package will always save you money while giving you comfort and peace of mind.

Ducting is the other major loss in a new installation. It gets hot in the attic and many service technicians choose to ignore the ducting because of that. It turns out that the majority of ducting in homes here in Southern California is undersized. There is a very good reason for it. The Uniform Mechanical Code only sizes ducting for heating-not cooling.

The UMC states that the size of the ducting need to be 2 squares of free air movement for every 1000 btus of heating. That means that 75,000 btu heater needs a round duct that is equal to or greater than 150 squares of cross sectional surface area. Using pi area of a circle we find that a 14 inch duct is 3.14 x 7 x 7 = 153 square inches. More than big enough. Well a 75kbtu furnace can have up to a 4 Ton drive blower (48,000btu of cooling) and cooling btus require 6 square inches of free air per every 1,000 btus of cooling. 48 x 6 = 288 square inches of cross sectional surface area. Using pi again we find that the minimum duct size to operate that 4 Ton unit is 18” ducting. Ducting only comes in even numbered sizes above 10 inch in diameter.

If your ducting is choking down your air system, you are paying for air conditioning that you are not receiving. A Ton of air is between 350 and 450 cubic feet of air per minute. The ideal in this area of the country is close to 400 cubic feet per Ton. Areas with higher humidity use a smaller amount of airflow and areas of desert use closer to the 450 cubic per air figure.

Virtually every study ever perform on heating and cooling btu loss in ducting has concluded that about 35% of all wasted btus in a heating and cooling system come from undersized, broken, restricted or improperly installed ducting. Have your ducting checked out every year and save a bundle on utility bills as well as increasing your comfort ratio.
Back to Top
Call us Toll Free @ 1-877-247-6426

How much is it going to cost to fix my air conditioner?
No one can tell you this over the phone. No one can tell you this over the phone. Yes, I know if you call enough places that someone will answer your question and they will sound convincing. This is a bait and switch company. They will tell you some low rate and commit you to pay for that and then after “fixing” the item that they said they undoubtedly will find something else wrong and hike that service rate up to the moon. It is poor contracting and a fraudulent business practice to quote a repair over the phone when, as licensed professional, you know that the chances are good that the repair will be different than what you are quoting.If we are late the service call is free.

Don’t fall for it.

The majority of problems in a heating and air conditioning system are electrical in nature, not Freon. So when you get that quote over the phone for Freon, brace yourself, because that isn’t likely to be the problem. I can tell that that more than 60% of all the service calls that we go on are repaired for less than $100.
Back to Top Call us Toll Free @ 1-877-247-6426

How much is it going to cost to fix my FAU?
See above under air conditioning.
Back to Top Call us Toll Free @ 1-877-247-6426

How do I protect myself from bait and switch contractors?
The number one thing you can do is insist upon a city or county permit. The only reason to skip the permit process, it's required by law, is to skimp on materials and skip on labor. Believe me when I tell you that their are many areas where labor and materials can be skimped on, all to your disadvantage.

Look at the Fine Writing.
Most contracts have so many exclusions that the warranties and guaranties are worthless. I recently saw this line in 10 point type on the back of a re-pipe contract: “Customer accepts that should any provisions of the estimate on the front side of this contract not be accepted in full and paid at the time of completion that any and all warranties and guarantees are void.” The front of contract was for a re-pipe of a home for $15,300 and included an additional estimate for a tank less water heater for $8250 and a water pressure regulator for $325. If the customer does not accept the tank less water heater and the water pressure regulator, they have no warranty on their re-pipe.

Never use a big box retailer.
You really can't anyhow. Guess what. None of the big box retailers actually perform the work for you. They merely charge a percentage of the contract price, usually 15%, from the contractor that sells and installs the equipment. Home Depot has never installed a Trane Heater here in Orange County. Lots of other companies have. Most companies that work for the big box retailers give up working for them after few months. They foster a ruthless corporate environment and they care nothing for anything but the bottom line. If you have a contract by one of the big box retailers you really should read the fine print. By accepting the contract you given up all rights to sue or collect a single penny from the big box retailer. They legally wash their hands of you and you are merely purchasing the advertising service from them to connect you to this other contractor. Is that what you really thought you were buying? Guess what kind contractor uses a big box retailer? They are typically new contractors or contractors that have been unsuccessful in garnering work for themselves. They have next to no repeat buisness. They are here today and gone tommorrow. Its a big box revolving door.

The State of California mandates that all new construction in homes come with a mandatory 4 year warranty against obvious defects (defects you can see, hear, feel, smell) and a 10 year warranty against latent or hidden defects (typically structural, water leakage, etc.). The problem with this is that new construction, obvious if it’s new home, has never been defined. Is installing a water heater new construction? The problem with the 4 year obvious defects warranty is that small claims court only goes back 2 years with a limit of $7,500. You could have the case heard by the contractors license board which has a $25,000 limit and they will address the 4 year and the 10 year warranty provisions, but most cases are complicated and the board really wants to see bad contractors, not a latent defect that may or may not have been the fault of the contractor. Chances are your case will not prove gross negligence and the contractor won’t have to pay. You could sue in civil court, but the only real winners in that type of action are the attorney’s that will bleed you dry and leave you with nothing or less than nothing.

So, what do you do?
Make sure the contract specifically states that you can change your mind for the first year. We call it our 365 day test drive or the ‘I want think it guarantee.’ This takes all the guesswork out of picking a quality plumber. It eliminates all the fine print, no matter what it says, you are in charge. At anytime during the first year after the installation, you can simply ask for your money back and we’ll give it back to you. Complete details of this fantastic warranty are on the agreement and in writing. Never a lawsuit is needed. Why? Because you can send the contract and the request to our bonding company and they will have to pay you if we don’t. We are required by law to live up the terms and conditions of our agreements and if we fail to do so, the bonding company steps in. You are in charge and isn’t that the way it ought to be?
Back to Top Call us Toll Free @ 1-877-247-6426

Don't let your A/C repairman rip you off.
There are a number of things that you can do a number of things that you should do in order to make sure that you are getting your money’s worth from you’re Heating and A/C technician as well getting the proper kind of work performed.

Have a little fun and print out this section the next you have a air conditioning service technician to your home.

1. Do ask questions, especially about the price. I don’t mean beat them up about it. I mean ask them how they came to that dollar amount. Believe or not most companies just make up the price as they are going along. It’s almost as if they set the price according to the price of the neighborhood or the car in the driveway. They should have a printed price book and each task that they are performing should be in that book. They should be able to show you that they did not just make up the price. If they can’t show you the pricing structure then show them the door.

2. If they are adding Freon to your system, ask them how they knew it was low. They will say that the pressures are low. Say, I understand, and could you tell me what method of charging Freon are you using? 80% are going to give you a bewildered look because they have never been taught how to charge Freon properly. They may even start babbling some nonsense, you’ll know it’s nonsense. Nearly the entire other 20% will tell you that they are using the superheat method of charging. It’s very popular because the manufacturers were pushing this method up until a few years ago. This is the method used for systems that used a fixed orifice metering device (older cheaper coil, less efficient). All newer systems since January 2006 use a thermostatic expansion valve and can only be charged using the subcool method.

It is incredibly easy, but I have only had 4 applicants pass a test for employment in the last 20 years that could actually explain it. The industry is generally not very good when it comes to education.

The subcooling method requires a temperature reading of the high side line leaving the outdoor unit. The temperature of the line should be about 10 degrees below the pressure-temperature reading on the Freon gauges. I say about because manufactures vary this somewhat. The temperature pressure reading is the listed temperature of the Freon at the pressure that it is operating-not the actual temperature.

The superheat method requires reading the temperature of the Freon leaving the evaporator coil (the larger of the two lines) and comparing it’s temperature gain against the temperature-pressure reading of the low side line at the condensing unit. It should be from 14 to 27 degrees depending upon the manufacturer and the humidity.

This article isn’t about to service your air conditioning system and I tried not to get too technical, but you need to know that if you’re A/C technician tells you your system is low on Freon and he adds Freon and says everything is good now….watch out. He should record the following on his invoice:

Before adding Freon:It takes knowledge to make your system its most efficient.

Low side pressure @ psi
High side pressure @ psi
Outdoor temperature (ambient)
Superheat degrees or subcooling degrees

After adding Freon:

Low side pressure @ psi
High side pressure @ psi
Superheat degrees or subcooling degrees
Supply temperature
Return temperature (these should be about 20 degrees different)

If your air conditioning technician didn’t perform this work, then he didn’t charge your unit correctly and maybe he didn’t charge it at all.
Back to Top Call us Toll Free @ 1-877-247-6426

Can't a handyman fix my a/c?
the guy that caulks your windows and paints the trim on your garage is not qualified to work on your air conditioning system. If you hire him to work on your air conditioning and he screws it up, very likely, then it's your fault. You should know better than this.

I'm not knocking handymen here. they are very useful for those odd jobs arouns the home. In fact we actually have one who is properly licensed and insured and we use him to repair those problems that occurr from time to time on jobs that we perform. Occasionally one of the workers will put his foot through a ceiling or will scratch a wall. We are human and things do happen from time to time.
Back to Top Call us Toll Free @ 1-877-247-6426

The problem with ducting
Ducting is the other major loss in a new installation. It gets hot in the attic and many service technicians choose to ignore the ducting because of that. It turns out that the majority of ducting in homes here in Southern California is undersized. There is a very good reason for it. The Uniform Mechanical Code only sizes ducting for heating-not cooling.

The UMC states that the size of the ducting need to be 2 squares of free air movement for every 1000 btus of heating. That means that 75,000 btu heater needs a round duct that is equal to or greater than 150 squares of cross sectional surface area. Using pi (area of a circle) we find that a 14 inch duct is 3.14 x 7 x 7 = 153 square inches. More than big enough. Well a 75kbtu furnace can have up to a 4 Ton drive blower (48,000btu of cooling) and cooling btus require 6 square inches of free air per every 1,000 btus of cooling. 48 x 6 = 288 square inches of cross sectional surface area. Using pi again we find that the minimum duct size to operate that 4 Ton unit is 18” ducting. Ducting only comes in even numbered sizes above 10 inch in diameter.

If your ducting is choking down your air system, you are paying for air conditioning that you are not receiving. A Ton of air is between 350 and 450 cubic feet of air per minute. The ideal in this area of the country is close to 400 cubic feet per Ton. Areas with higher humidity use a smaller amount of airflow and areas of desert use closer to the 450 cubic per air figure.

Virtually every study ever perform on heating and cooling btu loss in ducting has concluded that about 35% of all wasted btus in a heating and cooling system come from undersized, broken, restricted or improperly installed ducting. Have your ducting checked out every year and save a bundle on utility bills as well as increasing your comfort ratio.
Back to Top Call us Toll Free @ 1-877-247-6426

Is one brand of equipment better than another?

Yes and no or perhaps it depends. Is one car brand better than another? It depends on the purchaser. Do you want a BMW, Cadillac or do you preferr a Yugo or Isuzu. That probalby wasn't fair to Isuzu, sorry. The real problems typically come from an unprofessional and untrained installation. The issue with the cheap units isn't that their cheap, it's that the people putting them in are cheap and are skipping every step they can to save money on the installation. It really is true that only the most welathly homeowners can afford the cheapest installation. That's because they can pay for a replacement again and again.Factory trained employees with contant updates to keep them up on everything new and improved.
Back to Top Call us Toll Free @ 1-877-247-6426

My new air conditioner seems to run all day long and it still will not cool my house comfortably. Why?
There are several possible reasons. Among them are a lack of airflow due to an undersized, broken, or restricted duct system. The system may have too much Freon in it, overcharged. Do your lights dim when the outdoor unit turns on? Did you get a permit? If you didn’t, get a city permit and an inspection now. You can purchase the permit yourself and when the inspector comes to your home, he or she will write a list of problems. You can then call the company that installed the system incorrectly to fix it, pay for the permit and then stay for a re-inspection. If they refuse, you can file with the Contractor’s State License Board and have the mater settled in arbitration. It is free to you, just little leg work. The majority of systems that are installed without inspections are installed wrong and these systems generally do not cool and heat as well as they should and they cost you much more to operate. If the air conditioner was recently installed and never has worked properly, the chances are that it's too small to handle the heat load of your house or a very poor installation. Unfortunately, many air conditioning companies today cut out the necessary first step of running proper heat load calculations on the home prior to sizing the equipment. If you have purchased a unit which is too small to handle the load the only thing to do is replace it with the proper size unit.
Back to Top Call us Toll Free @ 1-877-247-6426

I have a new air conditioning system, but it's still too hot upstairs. What can I can do about it?
This is a common problem with two story homes. Heat rises and cool air sinks. Zone control installation to redirect air to the correct areas can help to alleviate this problem. Installing a variable speed furnace to continually move the air in the home (only about ¼ of the maximum of your blower) can even out the temperatures. We recommend a variable speed motor because it only uses about as much electricity as a 40 watt light bulb when it is in recirculation mode. A standard blower assembly running full speed 24-7 can cost as much as $100 a month to operate.

You could also have a restriction in the ducting system. We can usually camera the system and find out what the problem is. Often times the problem is merely a disconnect duct or a damper that has fallen shut.
Back to Top

What size of air conditioner do I need for my house?
Air conditioners are rated in btus, British Thermal Units, with 12,000 btus equaling 1 Ton. This phrase comes from the days when ice was used for cooling. One ton of air conditioning is equal to the amount of heating you would get from one ton of ice melting in a 1 hour period. There really is no such thing as “cooling btus” as it is a process of transferring heat. In cooling mode, your air conditioner transfers heat btus to the outside air leaving cooler air in your home.  
Contrary to what most service technicians perform, proper sizing is not done based on the square footage of the home, such as one ton of ac for every 500 square feet. Such rough rule of thumb guesses do not allow for important variables. My only question to those technicians that guess at the size of the system in the home is: “Are you going to guess on how to properly install the system as well?”. The proper size can only be determined from the results of a heat load calculation on your home. The calculation takes into account the area of exposed walls, the glass area and whether it's single or dual pane, the insulation levels in floors, walls, and ceilings, any exterior or interior shading and the volume of the home in cubic feet. We use a method of calculation called "manual J" which was developed by Air Conditioning Contractors of America, we are members, and this is the only approved method by all major building codes for sizing heating and cooling systems. We use an abbreviated form for this (we don’t have a lot of the structural and surfaces that the rest of the nation does) and this process takes about 45 minutes to accurately size a system, faster with your help measuring. Yes, sometimes the system does come out to be 500 square feet a Ton, but generally, that figure is a little oversized.

Proper size is critical to you and your families comfort and savings on your energy bill. Oversized units cost much more to operate and short cycle so much that your house may become humid and uncomfortable. Undersized units run all day long and still don't cool the house. Make sure you get the right size.
Back to Top Call us Toll Free @ 1-877-247-6426

How much will it cost to install a new air conditioner?
It is impossible to quote a price without first checking conditions at the job site. We simply cannot determine what the price will be without this first step. Price will be dependent by the size, SEER rating, and location of the new unit as well as whether or not the existing furnace, electrical panel, and ducts are suitable for air conditioning or if they must be replaced, repaired, cleaned or altered for the new installation. We will not charge you a single penny to come out to your home and give you a free written estimate and that proposal will be customized to your situation, your needs and wants, your family’s needs and wants and your home’s heating and cooling capacity. In almost all cases, the proposal is written up for you on the spot with no waiting to receive it in the mail.
Over the last 15 or so years their have been many innovations in the heating and cooling market. Many of the items that can make our lives more comfortable today did not even exist 10 or 15 years ago. When air conditioning first started entering the home in numbers in the early 1970’s it was merely a box added to a heater that had cold air spewing out of it. We know better now and the options are vast. Your furnace and air conditioner is now a home comfort system capability of regulating humidity, purifying the air and maintaining multiple temperatures and conditions across many zones in your home. There are a lot of questions to ask before we can come to a system that best suits you.

Beware of the company that gives you canned speech and a price over the phone to change out your air conditioner and be ready to be disappointed when they come knocking. These are bait and Switch contractors that seemingly “find things” in addition to the original contract when installing. These “things” send the price skyrocketing and if not approved for the installation, lead to a box that heats and cools rather than a home comfort system. Noise, comfort and utility bills all seem to be compromised by the bait and switch contractor.
Back to Top Call us Toll Free @ 1-877-247-6426

Do I need a permit to install a new air conditioner?
Yes. Whether you live in the city or the county, a house, condo, townhome or mobile home a permit is a legal requirement. The issuance of a permit usually involves making a drawing of the property showing the location of the air conditioner, some cities require engineering sound calculations to keep your neighbors happy and then taking this to the building department along with an application. The fees for this vary from jurisdiction to jurisdiction. Permits are usually issued the same day. After we complete your home improvement and you star enjoying your investment, we call for an inspection and set up an appointment with the city inspector. The inspector actually works for you, the homeowner. They make sure that the system safe, up to code and meets the installation requirements as set forth by the manufacturer of the equipment. When the job is completed and safe the inspector will sign off the permit. Some companies illegally do these jobs without a permit and when they are busted, the homeowner gets the fine, not the contractor. Here at the Empire Family of Services, we take care of obtaining the permit, take care to install your new home comfort system properly and take care to ensure that that your home improvement passes muster with the city. We do all of this so that your new home comfort system takes care of you and your family for many years to come in a trouble free efficient and cost effective manner.
Back to Top Call us Toll Free @ 1-877-247-6426

Since my new air conditioner was installed, our electric bill has skyrocketed. We don't even use the air conditioning very much and are only running it for a few hours at night. Is something wrong?
Yes. New air conditioners should cost you about one half as much to run as an older unit. They come with Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratings (SEER) of 13 as a minimum and go as high as 20+. The older machines had ratings down around 6. This means that if the air conditioning portion of your electrical bill was $200 before the install, the new portion should be 6 divided by 13 times 200 or about $92 saving you over $100 a month.
If your energy bill has skyrocketed there probably is a problem somewhere in the system. Upon installation a new air conditioner must be tested and have the refrigerant charge accurately adjusted. These are not preset by the factory as every job site has different conditions. North Carolina Alternative Energy Corp. found that 90% of the units they tested exhibited some sort of energy wasting problem, 50% had an improper refrigerant charge and 40% had inadequate airflow. Proper installation of the air conditioner and testing of the system as a whole is crucial to performance and energy savings.
In the order of most problematic first with the installation of a new system:
1. Improper Freon Charge. 10% under or overcharge equates to a 20% reduction in efficiency.
2. Ducting undersized, broken or restricted. 35% of all wasted btus in heating and cooling systems are lost from the ducting.
3. Oversized air conditioners. This cause short cycling (on-off) rather than on the majority of the day. When an air runs for a longer period of time it removes moisture and adds to the comfort ability in the home.
4. Improper installation. Lack of clearances around the outdoor unit restricting airflow to the cooling coils. Undersized or over length copper lines to and from the outdoor unit to the indoor unit.
If you are going to have a new system installed, don’t you think you have it installed properly. Protect yourself and insist upon a permit.
Back to Top Call us Toll Free @ 1-877-247-6426You'll save when use use The Empire Family of Services

My air conditioner is not cooling. Why?
It could be any of a number of following problems:

1. Low Freon or Puron. An A/C system requires a certain amount of Freon or refrigerant to cool properly. If low, it works less efficiently and does not cool well.

2. Dirty condenser coils-- The condenser or outdoor unit is like the radiator in your car. If you blocked the radiator in your car the engine would overheat. The condensing coils cool the high pressure Freon vapor (hot gas) after it leaves the compressor so it can condense into a liquid (that’s why it’s called a condenser). If the condenser is full of grass, ivy, leaves or debris, air flow through the unit can become and overheating occurs. The coils must be kept clean and this is one of the purposes of an annual tune up.

3. Broken condenser fan motor. This fan should come on and remain on when the A/C system is operating. If the outdoor unit sounds like it’s operating, but no air is coming off it, turn it off as you have a serious problem. If the fan motor, motor relay, capacitor or wiring is defective, the motor will stop working. This causes a dramatic pressure increase which can damage the compressor and send your electric bills through the roof.

4. Air and moisture contamination -- For the refrigerant inside the system to do its job properly, it must not be contaminated with air or moisture or the wrong type of Freon. These items are not compatible with the compressing system and they reduce the amount of cooling output. You cannot tell if the Freon system is contaminated without attaching a set of Freon gauges. The Freon is typically contaminated when the high side needle on the gauges fluctuates back and forth more than a couple of pounds. Moisture in the system can cause ice stoppages in the Freon at the indoor coil which can cause high Freon pressure and damage the compressor. The wrong type of Freon can cause oil separation and premature destruction of the compressor. Contamination is either through a leak on the suction side on the Freon lines (the large copper line) or through poor service practices.

5. Electrical problem. Fuses, wiring, circuit breaker or 24 volt control problem.

6. Is your thermostat set correctly? We get many calls each year from homeowners that set their thermostat to on under the fan control. That switch is not for air conditioning. It is for fan blower control in the home.
Back to Top Call us Toll Free @ 1-877-247-6426

What is SEER and why do I need to know about it?
SEER stands for seasonal energy efficiency ratio. SEER stands for seasonal energy efficiency ratio. The higher the number, the more efficient the machine is. The SEER rating is often found on the yellow sticker attached to newly installed condensers.

The federal standards changes in January 2006 and the minimum SEER that can be manufactured is a 13 SEER. There are now machines whose efficiencies can reach up to 20+ SEER making the use of air conditioning much more affordable. There is a considerable amount of mislabeling going on by the manufacturers so be careful. If a unit is labeled “High Efficiency” don’t take it for granted. That is not an industry term that is defined. High efficiency labeling really means absolutely nothing. 13 and 14 SEER machines are average, minimum SEER and only a single step above minimum SEER yet many manufactures label them with the High Efficiency tag. Make sure that you find out the SEER of the HVAC machine that your contractor will be installing for your home. Using a lower SEER can cost you a lot of money during those hot summer months.

The SEER rating is the Btu of cooling output during a typical cooling season day divided by the total amount of energy consumed in watts.  

SEER = BTU ÷ Watts


For example, a 60000 Btu air conditioning unit (5 Ton), with a SEER of 6, operating for a total of 1200 hours during an annual cooling season (Southern California average) would provide an annual total cooling output of:

60000 Btu × 1200 = 72,000,000 Btu of cooling on average during the year


With a SEER of 6, the annual electrical energy usage in watts would be about:

72,000,000 Btu ÷ 6 = 12,000,000 Watts (this is watts used for the entire year)

If the electrical charge per watt is 14 cents (it can go as high as 27 cents currently) the bill for the air conditioning is $1680 for the year. This does not include the indoor fan motor as that must be added into the equation to figure the true total amount.

Since most system that we replace are a little more than 10 years old and, after dirt, grime, wear and tear set in the are about 6 SEER that is what people are paying.

Just what can you save by replacing your system? Using the same figures above we can calculate out a predicted savings in electrical use using this formula:

6 ÷ New Seer × 1680 = predicted new bill
13 SEER = $775 for a yearly savings of $905
14 SEER = $720 for a yearly savings of $960
15 SEER = $672 for a yearly savings of $1008
18 SEER = $560 for a yearly savings of $1120
20 SEER = $504 for a yearly savings of $1176

THIS PART IS VERY IMPORTANT: BOTH THE INDOOR & OUTDOOR EQUIPMENT MUST BE MATCHED IN ORDER TO RECEIVE THE RATED SEER.

So what does this really mean? If you currently changed out your old 6 SEER system and replaced it with a new 20 SEER Ultimate system over the next 10 years of usage you would save about $11,760 in utility bills on just the outdoor unit. This is without the scheduled increases in electric rates. There are several already approved and the electric company asks for increases nearly every year and sometimes more than once a year. There is more…

What about repairs? Would it be safe to say that you will pay on average at least $200 a year in repairs for your existing system? Some years it would be nothing and other years it could be substantial. As these units get older they do tend to break down more often. Your savings comes in here because every system that we install comes with a free 10 years parts and labor guarantee that states just so long as we are allowed to maintain your unit each year we will not let you pay a single penny in repairs. This guarantee is in writing on the agreement. Doesn’t that mean that you will save another $200 a year in repairs for the next 10 years? Doesn’t that add another $2,000 in savings? That is now $13,760 in savings.

What about your rebates? There is a $1,500 tax incentive and a $200 gas company rebate currently active. Add those to the savings and the savings amount jumps up to $15,460 for this ultimate system.

What about your gas savings on the new furnace. These Ultimate system require a special furnace. Did you know that if you are currently running a standing pilot furnace it could be as low as 60% AFUE. AFUE stands for annual fuel utilization efficiency. AFUE is directed compared to money. A furnace that is said to have 60% AFUE means that for every one hundred dollars of gas burned by that furnace that forty dollars of it is wasted up the flue. How do you feel about walking over to your thermostat and turning the dial up to forty dollars wasted through your chimney? You are only going to save a couple of hundred dollars a year in gas usage with a high efficiency furnace, but we need to add this in to the equation to find out the true cost of the system.$200 a year at 10 years usages is another $2,000 in savings.

So, just what are you waiting for? Replacing that old, worn out dangerous hunk of and air conditioning and heating system now will net you at least $17,460 over the next 10 years. I just don’t know to put this any more clear. If your system is more than 10 years old you should replace it whether or not it’s broken, whether or not it’s running and whether or not it does a good. You need to replace it because your utility overpayments are going to pay for your new system.

It isn’t going to cost you hardly anything. Call now 2 1-877-247-6426. Stop procrastinating, act now.
Back to Top

How can I cash in on the government rebates?
We are here to help you and we'll start you down the right path to maximizing your tax incentives and rebates. In the meantime you can do some of your own research for your projects by visiting some of these links. Here are some helpful websites that enable you to maximize your rebate potential:

Federal EnergyStar RatedWith a properly tuned up and operating system you can sit back and relax. Your heating and cooling system is doing all the work for you.

California Solar Initiative

Southern California Gas Company Rebates

Southern California Edison Rebates

San Diego Gas and Electric Rebates

Anaheim Utilities Rebates

Metropolitan Water District Rebates

Database for Renewable Energy
Back to Top

Contact us now and start saving Call us Toll Free @ 1-877-247-6426

This is a furnace fire caused by lack of maintenance on a defective product. You should have your heating system checked out every year to be safe.

Attic Forcea Air Heater Fire. Gas explosion.

Heating system repair and maintenance.
1. Induced draft motor, blower assembly.
2. Gas valve above the burners. On the burners is the hot surface igntor.
3. Vacuum switch or pressure switch.
4. Heat exchanger or fire box.
5.Insulated chamber surrounding the fire box.
6. Control board. Circuit board. Transformer. Fuse.
7. Door switch. Push button switch.
8. Sound insulation on the side walls.
9. Filter rack.
10. Main blower motor and capacitor.
11. Positive door seal.

The outside unit or condenser.

Air Conditioning parts, maintenance and installation.
1. Outdoor fan motor. Fan blade. Finger guard.
2. Safety fins to save little fingers.
3. Poweder coated steel surround with rounded edges to prevent cutts and scrapes.
4. Louvers for efficent and queit air flow.
5. Compressor.
6. Spine fin rool aluminum non rusting cooling coils.
7. Insulated blanket for sound control.
8. Controls. start capacitor, run capacitor, contactor, relay, circuit board and safety controls.


Clean your ducts about every 5 years. Dirty ducts before sanitizing.
What does the inside of your ducting looing like. If it's in your ducts, it's in your lungs.

Don't let a handyman work on your home or buisness air conditioner or heater.
Handymen and unlicensed contractors have no place working on your heating and cooling equipment. These systems can be dangerous and it's a fully trained technician to properly service them.

You will be 100% Satisfied

Your satisfaction is key to our success.

We have a Home Comfort Guarantee

Comfort in your home is a priority.

Approved by the California League of Homeowners

We will be there when you need us.

We are members fo the Better Business Bureau

You will not get stuck with a lemon

If what we do doesn't work, its free or we will replace for you at no charge.

National Contractor of the Year

Recently named National Contractor of the Year

We can make just about any repair affordable for any budget.

Yes, you really can have the home improvement for pennies a day.

We will save you money and save you time. Now that's a bright idea.

Give us a call toll free at 1-877-247-6426 and find out for yourself the money that you could be savings right now.

Every system can get a a full 10 year parts and labor guarantee.
Every system we install comes with a 10 year parts and labor guarantee when we are allowed to perform the yearly maintenance that is required by the manufacturer.

No frustration guarantee.
If your new home comfort system breakdown that we provided and installed and we are not able to get it up and running within 24 hours well pay you $250 for your frustration.

Save money and enjoy the comfort of your own home.
Your heating and cooling system needs to be tuned up at least once each year to maintain your factory warranties and guarantees and to ensure that it is safe, won't break down when you need it and that it operates using the least amount of electricity possible. Give us a call and find how much better your system can operate. Learn how your heating and cooling system can improve your life, not agravate it.

Evaporator coil
The evaporator coil must be changed out when the outside unit is changed out. The reason for this is surface area of the fins on the coil. The new condensers (outside units) pump less Freon so the indoor coil needs to have more surface area to gather the heat and let your home cool. Without the new coil's surface area the outside unit doesn't remove as much heat from your home and your system will not operate in the manner that it should. It will cost you more to operate and produce upward of 40% less cooling for your home.

Your home will be left as clean or cleaner when we are done as when we arrived.
We'll bring drop cloths to protect your valuable floor and we will clean up after ourselves. That is a promise.

A clean system is a clean home.
If it's in your ducts it's in your lungs. A clean sanitary HVAC system is crucial to good health. Let us show the ways in which your new comfort system and your existing system can be utlitized to scrub the air constantly leaving your home cleaner every day.

All employees are background checked for your safety.
All of our employees are screened and criminal background checked before ever setting a foot on your property. We want you to feel safe and secure so we do our homework. Criminal background check, civil background check, extensive testing and regular classes to improve the skills of the trade. You will only get a professional that carews as much about you as they do their own family.

Careers
Do you think what you have what it takes. Are you EPA certified, Comfort Certified, NADCA certified, NATE certified or factory trained? If so, give us a call and let's see if you are ready to train up to the next level.
Call us Toll Free @ 1-877-247-6426 and let us give you a helping hand.

Copyright 2008 Jim & Stephanie Enterprises, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
Toll Free 1-877-247-6426